Givenchy Spring/Summer 2019
Clare Waight Keller was inspired by the life of Annemarie Schwarzenbach, a Swiss writer in the 1930s Thirties who resisted gender norms from an early age, dressing like a boy and like a girl, as she pleased. The collection had sharp lines marked by the contrast between colors, military inspiration in the use of greens and cargo pants, and wide-leg trousers. The use of color was a blend of bold greens and blues and neutrals that, even as earthy tones, were well-presented in lighter fabrics. A very formal yet extremely stylish collection that inspired us with looks like the oversized blazer with purple shirt, a power suit in black worn shirtless, and the nice combination of metallic silver plunging neckline blouse with high waisted trousers in black – a representation of both the attires, feminine and masculine. However, if Waight was impeccable when blending masculine and feminine, her dresses also had a tailoring touch: they were the expression of a strong personality. From tailoring, the dresses had highlighted lines, as if part of an architectonic work, but this aspect was smoothed by the use of volume that brought movement to the outfits. The long yellow and white dress had a geometrical décolletage, but the blend of yellow and white in a soft fabric made the entire ensemble more organic—not too rigid. It’s important to notice that Givenchy had a number of models with pixie haircuts, which contributed to the proposed theme. Waight didn’t bring an androgynous collection, but as a clever mixture of masculine and feminine with a few stylistic gender norms, the collection was very well executed.