Issey Miyake Spring/Summer 2019


With the theme “Traces of Hands,” Issey Miyake inquires: “Hands have been weaving, sewing and giving new shape to cloth. Yet, what if we could play with the shape more freely as if kneading dough or molding clay?” The idea of molding led Miyake to use the new material named Dough Dough -- the shape memory fabric allows you to change the shape of the garment by rolling up the collar, sleeve, or brim of hats. An example of this molding fabric is the cerulean blue dress with rolled sleeves and collar. A beautiful fashion concept accomplished with creativity that produced clever looks with volume (on both the upper and lower body) and complex shape. The idea of molding the Dough Dough (fabric) adds movement to the garments in a structured form instead of freely loose: Miyake uses a dense volume that pairs perfectly with a whimsical urban style. Another good example of this style is the striped turquoise asymmetrical dress: depth, volume, and sophistication in a style that presents spring in all its dimensions. Spring is the season of renovation; to change, every single part of nature needs to wake from their winter sleep and move towards the sun. In the same way, as Miyake shows, Dough Dough creates pieces following the wishes of the woman who wears it – we are its sun. But Miyake’s show wasn’t only about Dough Dough: the traces of hands are also on the first outfits seen in the collection. Paint brushes created prints that are artistic without being edgy. The best look seen with this characteristic was the terracotta blouse and wide trousers that followed the rules of the collection – volume and depth – but seemed less “planned” than the Dough Dough ensembles. A creative, modern, and original collection. The silhouette was freed from the highlighted waist and the spring aura was cleverly crafted with colors and volume instead of opting for the already known (and widely reproduced) flowy garments.